Saturday, July 22, 2023

St Malo to Santander by bike, some lessons learned

Here are some reflections to help those planning a similar trip

Route
This is a balance between availability trip time and your preferred roads. 

The key area to look carefully at is the Bayonne - Santander section as the most direct cycable route uses national roads that are wide and smooth but used by HGVs and generally follow the industrialised valleys. Even the minor roads can feel quite substantial, and the descents fast.

If time permits a less direct route could avoid some of these sections, but this will add time (days possibly) as the inland route is even more hilly as well as less direct.

The other consideration is when to pick up the Velodyssey #1. Almost the entire section between Royan and Bayonne is on a dedicated tarmac cycle route. It is also flat. So quick time can be made through the pine forests and heath. However, accomodation options are limited and preferably booked ahead.

With planning, the section between St Malo and Royan can use great local roads. The routes through Rennes and Nantes have good cycle paths, just keep an eye out and adapt and join when you can.  The cycle paths along the Charente canals are notoriously slippery in wet conditions. I experienced this.  They are probably best minimised if on slick road tyres, maybe only used as linking sections.

On the Basque roads some cycle groups had at least one rear light running. I felt safer doing like wise. On french roads, generally cyclists don't use a rear light in daytimes.  So I ran my rear radar without the light flashing in France.

River crossings
The cross channel ferry routes are used to taking bikes. Book in advance.

The transporter ferry at Rochefort across the Charente takes bikes. No booking needed but purchase ticket at the booth. Slow so don't hang around if possible.

The ferry at Royan across the Gironde takes bikes. No booking needed, purchase ticket at the booth. Every hour.

The transporter bridge in Bilbao is quick and tickets on the bridge itself or at the machine.

Bike
I encountered a huge array of bikes from basic to higher end tourers but the most impressive was a cyclist who had already completed 5000 km on a basic runabout bike complete with (malfunctioning) hub gears, stand and heavy lock.

Therefore any robust bike will do for a Bikepacker trip like this,  just bring the right attitude and sensible objectives and these incredible machines will take you there.

Baggage
This is dependent on whether camping or using hotels, and many personal preferences over where the 'essentials' red line is.

I found a backloader, frame bag, small cycling backpack and tribag should be enough for several days. 

The frame bag means only 650ml bottles can be fitted, and may interfere with your legs.  For some a front bar bag may be better option and help bike balance. But this is the setup that works for me .

Views differ on the bike backpack. In this I only carried food for the day, valuables and passport, jumper and my light sandals. It is also very useful for shopping in the evening.  However it did get uncomfortable after 4hrs or more unless rests every 60 to 90 mins. I found that an acceptable compromise for extra flexibility it gives.

Clothing
Take two sets of cycling gear and a good goretex rain jacket. The rest is up to you.

If suffering from 'day 3' saddle soreness do not give in.  Wearing both cycling bibs may help. Use chamois creme.  Your mind will adapt and keep positive, even the tough times are part of the formative experience.

Wash your gear each evening in the hotel room, roll in a towel and it will be dry enough in the morning. Do not skip this from your routine.

Shoes
Some say that SPD cycling shoes alone will suffice but I met none on the road taking that approach.  I e. Sacrifice space for some light shoes.  I took TEVA sandals. I love them but they take valuable space.

Luxury item
Small Bluetooth speaker. Essential for lifting the spirit and elevating the highs.

Luxury item 2
A small sponge for giving the trusty steed some TLC.  

Training 
The physical part of the trip was not as tiring as I had expected. I had completed a strict 12 week endurance cycling programme building up to 200km per week, and coupled with careful eating lost c 4 kg. If you are already reasonably fit this should be sufficient.

Food and drink
Get your lunch time sandwich from the French boulangerie in the morning. Stock up on snack bars and at the city supermarkets in the evening.  Beware Sunday/Monday closures but the minimarket will usually come good.

In Spain best option is to load up at the hotel breakfast bar or stop for lunch. This is another factor for the route plan.

Drink in Spain was always available from free water fountains located in village squares or near a children's play area.

In France small tabacs are generally welcoming and will give free chilled water alongside an expresso. Always ask about bike parking.

Another option is campsites, just walking boldly in and filling up at the nearest water point.  I also rinsed the bike drive train at these if desperate.

Accomodation
I'm a big believer in stayingat city centre hotels , IBIS etc, as they are generally used to one night stays by cyclists and other amenities like evening food, minimarket and pharmacies are on hand.

Always ask about secure bike storage however. Don't accept an open car park. Nowadays I am usually offered a  luggage storage room, empty conference room etc or the hotel room.

BandB options are ok but they can be less central meaning back on the bike for food. Also as it is their home, the proprietors can be prickly about arrival times, where you leave the bike, etc.

Final thoughts
 These are suggestions that may help but set your own goals and don't worry about anyone else. This is your trip and do it your way.

If this post is helpful please consider supporting
https://wheelsforwellbeing.org.uk/ 

Wednesday, July 12, 2023

Camino into Cantabria

Muskiz to Somo
78 km, 1032 m (11 July)
1161 km and 9348 m in total from St Malo to Santander.


Coast road and hills following the Camino for quite a large section
then more rural roads on the run into Somo
Ferry across to Santander was a gentle way to finish
Greek evil eye kept me safe.

Then food time 


Monday, July 10, 2023

water fountain trail

Lekeitio to Muskiz
88 km, 1181 m

Passed 1,000kn early in the day.

Straight into a 250 m clinb from the hotel and it was up and down for the whole day. Sunny but less close so good conditions for cycling.
First stop at the water fountain in Guernica.  Realised now that every reasonable sized village has a public fountain.
After lunch then some hairasing descents and major highways into Bilbao and out again.

Used another transporter bridge to cross the estuary (0.9 euro) very slick operation.
Interesting chat with a chap from Ibiza just off on a 14 day Camino. He said that the island too busy in August and he had to leave for the holiday season. He had his bike delivered by post to Bilbao and most of the day assembing it!

Another scary ride through major roads to Muskiz and mightyly relieved to reach the hotel.







Sunday, July 9, 2023

Smooth power

San Sebastian to Lekeitio
97 km , 1506 m
Three big climbs of about 250 m+ each and pleased to manage to stay out the red, but the descents on the wide smooth roads were fairly terrifying for the boy from Surrey.
Stopped at a friendly cafe and the hotel was a welcome sight just as the drizzle was setting in, making the descents more spicy. 



bright lights

Bayonne to San Sebastian
73 km, 1291 m
(8 July 2023)
Through Biarritz to San Sebastian via the Jaizkibel climb used in this year's Tour de France.
Crazy busy in the city but great views from the hotel.







Friday, July 7, 2023

Across Les Landes

Biscarosse to Bayonne
136 km, 400 m
A huge trek across the heathland are aod Les Landes. It used to be open sheep grazing (famously the shepaards used stilts) but is now pine plantation and campsites plus the amazing bike path that goes on and on. 

Saw very efficient log loading and a paper mill (contrasting the relics yesterday).

Sheltered from the heat at a restored laundry washing station on a stream.   Used the pungent water to wet my neck bandana..
After a welcome drink at a campsite cafe, Bayonne seemed close and soon saw some oyster beds..

But it was a tiring drag through the Zone Industriel to  a friendly welcome at hotel Ibis.


Thursday, July 6, 2023

Route 1

Hourtin to Biscarosse
115 km 130 m
Should have been a straightforward route  on Velodyssey 1 but took a detour to lac du Sanguinet and got confused adding at least 10 km
lovely smooth roads and cycle paths. With a tool station part way

Hot so had to stop at a nice campsite for a drink
Amazing collection of water mill stones from a paper mill that operated from the 16 century until 1914.





Pay the ferryman

Royan to Hourtin (5 July)
61 km, 141 m
Started with a ferry across the Gironde
and chats with fellow cyclists about the Charante mud and rain mainly.
Ferry is a slick operation and saves a big detour.
Then along the coast via some excellent bike paths part of the velodyssey 1.
And a memorial to the free french forces and Maquisards especially 1945 which seems odd.
And then overnight at Hourtin, where the locals were having a great time, tabac under new ownership and the Wild Brothers had the joint jumping. 






Tuesday, July 4, 2023

La terre Charentaise

Rochefort to Royan
106 km, 591 m
A day starting with the transporter bridge across the Charente 
Talked to some chaps catching 'white' shrimps for their dogs   crevette croquante. Then raced off in the wrong direction but did see the fishing platforms
Erentually realised my mistake and headed off south via a converted railway line and then tow path 
Had to shelter from the rain under old bridges and then came off the bike and nearly in the canal.
really scary crossing of the La Seudre by big bridge but great views of the mussels being ferried around 

Then a long drag through the sandy forests with the sound of waves crashing in the background 
 Finally got the hotel in time wash the bike and fix the puncture   Lovely fish for supper.




The first testing climb

84km, 1802 m A change of plan today as the pass down from Col d'aubisque is closed.  So took a different route through the f...